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How To

Jetex 2.5" Exhaust System Installation - HermanH
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Disclaimer: By reading this, the reader accepts full responsibility in performing the following work at his or her own risk. B5one cannot assume responsibility for any damage, injury, dismemberment or death, as a result of you the reader, following our instructions. We supply this information freely, for those interested in knowing what is involved with such modifications. If you find you would like to perform a similar modification to your vehicle, we urge you to first seek the advice of a qualified mechanic prior to undertaking any of the work. Some work will require physical strength that may be beyond your ability to perform.

DIY Rating:   Moderate (4/5 Wrenches).
Time:   2-4 hours.
People Needed:   1-2

Tools Necessary:

  • 10mm 3/8 drive socket
  • 13mm 3/8 drive socket
  • 14mm 3/8 drive socket
  • 3/4" 3/8 drive socket
  • 9/16" 3/8 drive socket
  • 20" 3/8 drive extension
  • 3/8 drive ratchet
  • 3/8 universal joint extension
  • Phillips screw driver
  • 3/4" open end/boxend wrench
  • Jackstands, ramps and hydralic jack
  • Liquid Wrench

The installation of the Jetex system from New Dimensions comes just after two years and over 12,000 miles on the Neuspeed stainless steel system. One of the biggest factors for switching to the Jetex was the annoying cabin drone of the system. While it appeared the Neuspeed unit helped breathing somewhat, the cabin noise was much more than I had cared for in this sedan. I attempted to remedy the problem with an 18" tube style resonator in 10/2000 which did help quite a bit, but still short of what I wanted. The cabin noise was most evident during acceleration; even while maintaining speed (70mph), it was barely acceptable.

It wasn't until European Car Magazine (Nov. 2001) had run extensive review of 13 systems, that I began to seriously consider an alternative. Initially, I discounted the Jetex, again because of it's lack of HP gain. But when I began looking at the torque readings as well as the decibel numbers, I began to start narrowing down the field; of course I took a lot of the article with a grain of salt. After all, I saw varying amounts of HP variance between the first 8 systems, yet torque was a consistent 225 ft.-lbs. I would have expected some variance so right away I was suspecting some errors. Still, the article is a good read if you're interested: search www.europeancarweb.com. Ultimately, price and sound became the determining factor.

The decision to sink $467 into a new system which was quieter, was not an easy one, but after these last two years of just plain noise, I've decided to give my ears a rest. I will dyno this setup shortly. On a side note, the Jetex still weighs much lighter than the OEM system so weight loss was maintained.

The steps outlined here are for removal of the Neuspeed system, and installation of the Jetex system. If you are replacing the OEM system, the only difference is the suitcase sized resonator (recommend you have a hydraulic jack placed underneath it before unbolting the hangers) and using a reciprocating saw to cut the pipe just ahead of the muffler. (Somewhere above and forward of the rear axle beam.)

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Jack up all 4 corners and put on stands and/or ramps.

  2. Up the downpipe, you'll see (3) 13mm bolts; if possible, try to spray some penetrating oil from above or below. This is not easy and not imperative you do this but it's would be helpful. While I tried to get a shot, but the fact that it's very tight in this area, gave me no room for a straight shot at the bolts but you can see on just to the right of the tube.
  3. Using a 13mm socket on a 3/8" universal joint/extension, you'll need to remove the three bolts. Take your time; this is NOT EASY.

  4. Once all three bolts are removed, unbolt the spring loaded hanger with a 13mm socket:
  5. Unbolt the mid-chassis cross member with a 13mm socket:
  6. Unbolt the passenger side hanger with a 13mm socket. If you are removing the OEM resonator, it is highly advised you place a hydraulic jack under the resonator prior to removing BOTH hangars; the resonator on the Passat weighs approximately 40 lbs.
  7. Unbolt the (2) - 3/4" bolts from the muffler section. If this is the OEM exhaust, take a reciprocating saw with a carbide blade, and saw the tube at approximately the same area as the flange pictured below. The OEM system has not flange bolts in this area.
  8. With everything unbolted, simply remove all of the components of the Neuspeed system. The muffler is suspended by a pair of rubber hangers fore and aft of the muffler.

  9. In this installation, I reinstalled the OEM downpipe. The Jetex is designed for the OEM downpipe so no adapter is required. After the downpipe has been bolted to the catalytic converter, reattach the spring loaded hanger.

  10. Begin building the system. Below is a picture of it installed under the car; at this time, DO NOT tighten the clamps; leave them loose for now - note the Jetex resonator in the second picture
  11. Insert the muffler into the rubber hangers; use a hydraulic jack and a 2x4 to help "level" the muffler:
  12. With the muffler set to level, you can now begin tightening all of the clamps; after clamping the mid-pipe sections, review the level again, before tightening the joint between the resonator and the muffler:
  13. Finally install the tail pipes; make sure the top of the pipes do not touch the bumper and are level:

Notes: This system is very close if not exactly like OEM sounding when at idle. It's that quiet. When you accelerate, you get a nice rumble but not annoying at all; at freeway speeds, it's almost as comfortable as stock. In general, this is a quiet system. My goal this time around, was geared towards a sporty tone but not intrusive; I also wanted some added performance and I do believe that has been achieved; a dyno is pending to see how much of an improvement, if any, the system has added v.s. the Nesuspeed. So far, I am very satisfied with this system.

A bonus of this system was the straight pipes. I will be the first to admit that when I put on the Neuspeed system with the DTM pipes, I thought it look rather odd and I never did warm up to them as I originally thought. The straight pipes look great in my opinion.

While I had things off the car, I took some measurements with a metric caliper that might be useful for those wanting to know how the systems compare physically.

Neuspeed: downpipe (cat. side): 53.10mm / midpipe (at the muffler flange): 60.35mm

Jetex: OEM downpipe (cat. side): 49.97mm / midpipe: 60.37mm

 

 


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