APR Polyurethane Front Motor "Snub" Mount Installation - HermanH

Disclaimer: By reading this, the reader accepts full responsibility in performing the following work at his or her own risk. B5one cannot assume responsibility for any damage, injury, dismemberment or death, as a result of you the reader, following our instructions. We supply this information freely, for those interested in knowing what is involved with such modifications. If you find you would like to perform a similar modification to your vehicle, we urge you to first seek the advice of a qualified mechanic prior to undertaking any of the work. Some work will require physical strength that may be beyond your ability to perform.

DIY Rating:   Moderate (3/5 wrenches).

People Needed:   1 (2 will make it go faster)

Tools Necessary:

• #2 or #3 phillips screw driver
• T25 torx driver
• T45 torx driver on a 3/8" socket drive
• #2 or #3 flat blade screw driver
• 3/8" ratchet wrench
• 10mm 3/8" socket
• 13mm 3/8" socket
• 13mm box-end wrench
• Jackstands
• Hydraulic jack
• Some grease

The APR polyurethane "snub" mount replaces the front rubber motor mount located low and in the middle of the front of the engine, between the engine and intercooler tube/crossmember (on the 1.8T motors). The OEM front rubber motor mount is very soft and the "rubbery" feel in the shifter is due in part to this little component. By installing APR's bushing, nearly all of the excess movement has been eliminated, providing a very good feel during shifts. This upgrade provides a more sporty feel to the shifting mechanism but it will iduce more vibration at idle. I have found that anything above 1500 RPM's, the bushing is not noticable.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Jack up the front of the vehicle and set on jackstands.


2. Locate the 2 phillips screws that hold the grille in place:





3. Next remove the side turn signal corners on each side; just below them is a 10mm bolt that must be removed:





4. At the hood latch area, there are (3) T25 screws. Remove these 3 but note they do not look like the other T25 screws; these have a small collar to help center the plastic cover over the latch:





5. Now put your keys in the ignition and turn the wheels to one side. Then remove the (3) T25 screws in each wheel well liner; also undo the two plastic desus clips that attach the bottom of the liner to the belly pan; repeat on the other side:





6. Carefully pull back the liner a little bit and up where the sheet metal meets the plastic bumper, you will see a "hidden" T25 screw that screws in upwards; remove this screw on both sides; once you've done this, you can pull the bumper cover away from the car:





7. Under the car, remove the 10mm nut, and (5) desus clips. Remove the belly pan and set aside.


8. The hard part is getting the "T" handle of the hood latch out of the rectangular hole.
   
   • Use a small screw driver and unsnap the rectangular "guide". Once unclipped, move it forward to the skinny part of the "T" handle and remove:
   
   

   

   

   

   • Remove the cover that surrounds the latch itself. The two little pop-up posts are easily broken so be careful.
   
   
   • Use a screwdriver to flip-up the metal retaining tab. Then use the screwdriver to wedge between the yoke and seperate the plastic yoke from the latch. After this is done, you can snake the T-handle out.


9. Once you've removed the "T" handle, the rest of the bumper skin swings up and out; your car should look like this:





10. Take a 13mm socket and remove the long bolts that hold the aluminum bumper. This will give you easy access to the (8) T45 bolts.


11. Using a T45 driver on a 3/8" socket wrench, remove the two bottom bolts completely on each side; the two upper bolts you want to unthread about 3/4 of the way out; this will be required to help swing out the bottom of the radiator and heat exchanger assembly:





12. Underneath again, unscrew each of the hose clamps for the intercooler tube that run's across the bottom of the radiator. Try to get them loosened by twisting the hose until they move freely.


13. Take a 13mm box-end wrench and unbolt the (3) 13mm bolts from the Snub mount housing;there are two on one side, and one on the other; note the picture below shows the APR mount already in place:





14. You will probably need a good piece of 2x4" stud and wedge it between the bottom intercooler tube, and the A/C compressor; use the leverage from the 2x4 to help move the 'bottom' of the radiator assembly, while you attempt to remove the rubber snub mount. I used a large screwdriver to help pry out the snub mount; if you didn't unbolt the snub mount housing, it will be very difficult to remove.


15. Once the the housing and the rubber snub mount has been removed, grease up the outside and inside of the polyurethane bushing and mount this into the car; again, the 2x4 will come in handy. If you happen to have a 2nd person, then they can help pull the bottom of the radiator for you.


16. One the snub is in position, loosely bolt in the snub mount housing, and put the T45 bolts back on and tighten up all 4 bolts on each side. This will force the snub mount to seat into the pole that the original snub mount was seated on.


17. Turn the engine over and rev it a few times to help 'settle' the snub mount and housing. Then tighten the (3) 13mm bolts for the housing.


18. Reassemble everything and take the car for a spin. Do not forget to tighten the intercooler hose clamps!!!

Impressions
At idle, the engine vibration can now be felt throughout the entire car; it feels like a car in need of a tuneup but it is really just what you would expect with a more solid motor mount. However, at any speed beyond idle, you will not feel this vibration. Shifting is now much better feeling than before. It is different enough that I have actually munched my gears a couple of times today. I think I've gotten used to the "sloppy" feel of the shifter and now my timing is a bit off.Ê Overall, I'm pretty happy with the result.

B5one is a licensed club of Volkswagen